The following information is to address the most common Justock G2.1 Motor Tech Topics. Events commonly use a motor tester to run the motor and check the end-bell timing and motor RPM. We at Hobbywing of course suggest using the Hobbywing Tunalyzer.
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What is the max RPM for the Justock motor?
This spec is actually posted as the KV spec on the motor listing. The KV, is "RPM Per Volt", and a bit more universal then listing the test voltage and RPM. A simple Maximum RPM listing can be misleading and in accurate if test conditions are not correct. While KV, gives you the same info with out the concern of test conditions. Motors testers are all able to provide KV. If not, you divide the RPM, by the test voltage to get KV. (KV = RPM / Voltage). Motors well under or well over (more than say 5-8%) are suspect.
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What is the end-bell timing of the Justock motor?
On most testers, a normal non tampered with Justock motor (any turn) should show 46 degrees. This is common for most of the popular testers available, but we base our testing on the Hobbywing Tunalyzer.
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What do racers do to Cheat?
This is a can of worms, as we're exposing things, that some may not have known about trying to do. Most events have heard of them already, so the above topics will catch any cheats fairly directly.
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The 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, and 21.5 Justock motors, all use the a 12.5mm rotor.
PN: 30820007
Φ7-12.5x24.1-BUSA
Φ7-12.5x24.1-BUSB
Φ7-12.5x24.1-BUSC
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The 25.5 Justock motor, uses it's own 12.3mm rotor.
PN: 30820014
Φ7-12.3x25.2-FSSA
Φ7-12.3x25.2-FSSB
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The Rotors are marked on the output shaft with the part number and the size info.
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What is the best solution for cheaters?
The Buy Out Rule - Many forms of full size motorsports, that require racers to only use 1 type of a given item, typically engines, have a Buy Out rule in place. Any racer can purchase any other racers motor, for the price of a new motor, as well as a small fee. This allows any of the racers that like to accuse others, to put their money where their mouth is so to speak. It also prevents racers from cheating, as they know it will be very easy for them to get caught. Most racers have more then 1 motor, so why not buy one that you know is racing well from another racer. To some racers, cheaters are like a Poke'mon, gotta catch'm all!
There are lots of options, Here are some we like. Racers can either race the buy out motor, or trade it to the hobby shop/track to be disposed of. The race track itself, if they want to buy out a motor can do so as well. Keeping folks on their toes goes along way to giving racers confidence the track is doing what has to be done to keep racing fair and maximize the racers fun funds.
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Check below for important Links, info and Videos.
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Justock Performance or Tuning Parts.
The Justock series does not offer any tuning parts to make Justock motors faster. That would very much defeat the purpose of what this series is all about. If you're a serious racer running the Justock in "open" Spec class racing (Any Spec Motor is Legal), you want to check out our XERUN series of Spec turn motors for more tunable options. Justock motors are great, but the XERUN series is made to compete in the more open segment of the racing world.
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Motor Spec Chart:
Justock Motor page:
Justock Instruction Manual:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/User_manual_Justock3650SDG2.1en.pdf?8449563882318499692
Link to the Tunalyzer:
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/tunalyzer?_pos=1&_psq=Tunal&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Tunalyzer Comparison Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbnz3op1q4WpEK0hUTatLUcYCBhyg4Ylv
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